EMERGENCY MEDICAL CARE FOR THE KUNEKUNE

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CARE OF THE KUNEKUNE

By AKKPS Member Debra Allen of Allen's Acres

The information presented in this article is a guide ONLY. The author of this article is NOT a vet.

No amount of advice is a substitute for your veterinarian.

Always check with a vet immediately and follow their instructions.

WARNING

If your pig is sick, consult a veterinarian.

Do not waste time online trying to find answers from people you do not know.

People may represent themselves as "all knowing" or experts, but may be new to pigs themselves.

You have no idea who you are talking to or getting advice from on Facebook, for example. It is not worth the risk to save $ for a visit to a veterinarian if you aren't sure what is going on with your pig.

Don't risk your pig's life! If someone else's advice kills your pig, that is because you carelessly took that advice. Your vet is the person whose advice you should be listening to.

THE BASICS

Learning to differentiate between a tail swish of contentment and a tail swish that indicates discomfort or pain, or the difference between lack of appetite from depression and lack of appetite from disease takes time and observation. To be able to give the vet the information he needs to diagnose the pig quickly and without great stress and cost requires that you be able to give him good information. Learn to observe closely the normal behavior so that the abnormal behavior is apparent to you.

Here are things you should be able to determine with a pig that you suspect of being sick, and how to make spotting them a methodical and effective process. Keeping in mind, showing subtle signs of illness will be the first indicator your pig isn't feeling well. YOU know your pig better than anyone else and if you notice a change in behavior and feel like something is "off", it probably is and you should always go with your gut. Pigs are prey animals, they will mask being sick as long as possible, so if you can identify something is wrong early on, that's when you need to spring into action. Showing any sign of weakness as far as a pig is concerned puts them at risk for a predator attack. Call your vet after making notes of the changes you see and taking a temperature. Your pig may not have a fever in the morning, but you see your pig isn't acting right.

Check the temperature several hours later to be sure it isn't trending upwards and call your vet. They may give you some additional things to try before coming to see them or you scheduling an appointment to take your pig in, but be proactive! Never let anyone discount your feeling that something isn't right. Insist your vet see the pig or try another vet.

Your vet has the medical training that can take the bits and pieces of knowledge you can get here and place those bits into a framework of medical knowledge and actually make some decisions that are valid. NO ONE should diagnose anything online. A vet can listen, hear and feel for potential issues, do NOT let someone tell you they know what's wrong with your pig if there is ANY potential for a dangerous situation...EVER!

SYMPTOMS

Check list of symptoms and conditions to report to the vet when you call:

Cough
Choking cough
Dry hacking cough
Vomiting (check contents)·
Reluctance to eat with others, slow eating, dropping food, head held oddly while chewing or obvious signs of pain while eating
Head tilt, eyes behaving with side to side movement
Eyes dilated
Reluctance to rise
Reluctance to join herd
Skin rashes, lesions, signs of bites, swellings
Ear bothering them (shaking head and head tilt)
Eyes glassy or blurry
Attitude lethargic or confused
Wheezing, gasping
Groans or cries
Split or cracked hooves
Edema (swelling) in extremities
Sudden weight loss
Basic "windshield wiper" pattern of recent or current diarrhea
Lack of appetite
Lassitude
Temperature below 98 or above 104
Urination with straining
Defecation with straining
Gas, bloating
Lameness..like all feet are hurting and back arched
Lameness..like a particular limb hurts
Lameness or dragging hind legs
Lameness..like the hind quarters are stiff
Dipping with lateral, bleeding/oozing stripes across back (looks like big scratches)
Signs of infections such as pus or bloody discharge from vulva or other area
Stools appearance, dry/grey/black/smelly/amorphous/contain particles/bloody/have white tissue or coating of slimy film
Urine appearance, smell/color/ volume/stream normal, spasmodic or dribbling
White granular precipitate below vulva
Are there cancer indicators? Weight loss; days of good appetite followed by days of no appetite
Good days/Bad days behavior over a long period of time
Unwillingness to be touched by a normally affectionate pig
Overall unusual behavior

IS YOUR SITUATION AN EMERGENCY?

Your pig will not eat
Your pig will not move or it appears paralyzed
Your pig is shaking violently, is stiff, or is moving in circles, has a head tilt
Your pig is having trouble breathing
Your pig is vomiting blood or having bloody diarrhea
Your pigs body temperature is below 98 or above 104
Your pregnant pig has been pushing hard for 1 hour, you can see a piglet or part of a piglet in the vaginal canal, but the piglet is not coming
Your pigs eyes are jerking side to side or up and down
Your pig has an obvious or suspected bone fracture
Severe lameness
Your pig is straining to urinate or defecate with little or no results
Your pig has a rapid and/or weak pulse
Your pig has a substantial unexplained injury and/or bleeding that you can’t control
Your pig has suffered a bout of unconsciousness
Your pig has signs of infection like pus or a bloody discharge

DECISION MAKING

What to do after you decide your pig is sick or injured:

Reducing stress is key. By using a crate with the door installed in it and a blanket tossed over it, a quiet and calm pig can be taken into the clinic and masked down, eliminating the majority of associated stress. This only works with calm natured pigs and pigs that are small enough to fit in large crates. Going to some effort to keep stress to a minimum is very important. Sick pigs are even more susceptible to debilitating stress than well ones. One vet said the elimination of much of the stress in pre and post surgical care has been the single most important thing you can do for the pig’s medical needs. Plan ahead. Know your pigs and you can save them a lot of added problems.
Know how you will transport the pig and how long it will take when you call the vet.
Long before a sick pig makes it necessary, define a holding area where a pig can be moved to easily, can be loaded from and which is ready to accept a pig at any time....Water dish, shelter, bedding
When a pig acts abnormally and you think it is sick, move it to the “watch” pen so that you can observe other important behaviors. If this is your only pig, be sure it is in a place where you can closely monitor its behaviors and write down any unusual signs. A little limping or a cut may not require moving. But it won’t hurt. If it has fever or other critical symptoms, call the vet pronto. Do a quick analysis of other conditions and get the pig some help. Don't rush it. If the pig has respiratory problems you can kill it just by hurrying it along. Work slowly and stop when the pig gets stressed and let it settle down.
Use an area to keep an eye on the potentially sick pig and observe bowel and elimination behavior and the rest of the list before and during subsequent treatment.
Keep a sick pig in the watch pen to recover completely before turning it back into the herd. Surgery requires a minimum of 10 days for tissue to heal completely before being subjected to stretching and pulling on the sutures. Sometimes long antibiotic treatment may be necessary. Pigs get easier to care for as they get used to the “sick room” routine.
If the pig has to be taken in, plan on blood work unless the vet says it doesn’t need it. The chances of being diagnosed by simple observation is not great and if a day or two goes by before you realize it is no better, the pig now has to go back again, and recovery time has been lost and stress added. Blood profiles and a good physical exam can ascertain most, though not all, conditions you will encounter. It usually requires sedation. Sometimes, in older pigs or very sick pigs, a simple intranasal spray sedative will keep them quiet enough and at very low risk for a blood draw.
Sedation: Most times, for most pigs it will require an injectible to knock them out, then gas to keep them under. Many vets recommend and use a combination of several drugs for the injection ( this drug "cocktail" is available to vets). It has been used since the nineties with good results.
If the best care for a sick pig is 200 miles away....It’s still the best care. If you’re not willing to take it there be prepared to euthanize it if needed
Transport by closed vehicle only and control the temp to the moderate range of 70-75 when you can. Excess heat will add stress. Cold may make the pig worse but won’t in itself be as likely to cause a serious stress condition. (Within reason of course.. Don’t put a pig in a trailer when it’s 10 degrees and expect it to recover) Give plenty of bedding to keep it comfortable...At least a bale of hay in the nose of the trailer. If you don’t have a suitable vehicle to transport in the weather, rent a minivan or cargo van, crate the pig and go. The cost is minimal and the availability is immediate in most areas.

THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW FROM YOUR VET

How long before I should see an improvement?
When should I call the vet again?
If the pig gets worse, how can I reach the vet after hours or what should I do to get the pig care then?
Call the vet with the results after you begin to see them, discuss the treatment
If the pig is sick, the loading and vet visit are hard on it. Try to keep your own stress under control, keep children and dogs out of the loading process and load the pig with patience and as little rough handling as possible. NEVER chase it. Let it walk slowly and quietly and when possible trap it into a corner or stall, not by force but by trickery. There are many ways to load and carry pigs...From crating to blanket loading. Keep it warm and dry and out of drafts as it is transported

WHEN NOT TO MOVE A PIG

If a broken bone is suspected or the pig is showing a great deal of bloating or pain in its belly, it may be best to get a shot of painkiller or tranquilizer before moving it.

If it is very short of breath, breathes heavily if you try to get it up and seems to want to sit down every few steps...it may have a heart problem. Sows in active labor shouldn’t be moved either.

Before moving any of these pigs consult the vet and describe carefully the symptoms and ask how to safely get the pig in or get medication to it.

Stay calm and be precise in directions and relaying symptoms. A concise list to a vet is much appreciated as it helps him do his job better. A positive attitude is essential. I cannot tell you how many frantic pig parents start their conversation with, “I can’t”. I can’t get the pig to the vet, can't get the pig to eat, can't get the pills into the pig… Start with “I must” instead of “I can't” and the way to do it will come much faster and the help you need will be easier to find.
Being ready for an emergency means you can concentrate on getting the job done, not kicking yourself for not having the right tools or knowing how to reach the vet on a holiday.

BASIC WOUND CARE

This advice in no way replaces your vets recommendations. This is a simple guide for those who don't know how to properly dress a wound or for those needing emergent help.

Abrasions are superficial and can be treated by washing with saline and water and treating the area with any first aid ointment or spray. Read your labels.

Lacerations. Treatment depends on severity. Often seen during boar fights. Minor to moderate can be treated by washing the area with saline and a sterile bandage. If you cannot control the bleeding or if deep, affecting underlying tissues, go to a veterinarian.

Puncture/penetrating wounds. Damage to the surface and underlying tissues due to any foreign object. Animal bites should always been seen by a veterinarian due to a high risk/rate of infection. They should be treated as a puncture wound. 50% to 100% of bites end in some level of infection. In most cases, the opening needs to be enlarged for proper cleaning and healing. They should be kept open to heal from the deepest part up to the surface.

Burns can be topical or they can be invasive, meaning deep tissue. Sunburn is an example of a burn. This usually resolves on it’s own, but in some severe cases, a veterinarian’s intervention is required.

All wounds will cause inflammation. Remember, ice reduces inflammation, but this can prove to be impossible trying to use an icepack on a pig.

Levels of pain are relative to the area of the wound. Some areas such as the face have more nerve endings than a leg for example.

Amount of bleeding is relative to the area of the wound. Some areas such as the face have more blood vessels than others.

Some bleeding should be allowed as it will carry debris from the wound but should be stopped after about 15 seconds.

When should you seek medical care:

Injury due to significant force or trauma as there may be further injuries such as broken bones or damaged muscles and ligaments
When bleeding cannot be stopped with persistent pressure and/or elevation.
If there is a possible need for sutures.
If you cannot properly clean it yourself and sedation is required

Wound Treatment at Home

Abrasions – clean, antibacterial ointment, cover for 24 hrs.
Bleeding – control with direct constant pressure. If the gauze/cloth soaks with blood, replace with a clean gauze/cloth. Avoid touching the area with bare hands. Elevate area if possible. If Bleeding cannot be controlled within 10 minutes go to a veterinarian. There will be some oozing after major bleeding has stopped, This is normal.
Cleaning –flush with room temperature tap water. Scrub gently if superficial. Deeper and more painful wounds should not be scrubbed. If from a bite, a wound wash such as a saline antibiotic/antimicrobial wash should be used. A solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide can be use. Do not use peroxide, iodine, Betadine, Mercurochrome or any such treatment full strength, if at all. It will damage the healthy tissue. All flushing should be done with a moderate amount of constant fluid pressure and should be continued until the wound is clean and has a bit of sheen to the tissues. A water pik makes a great irrigation device.
If debris must be removed, go to a veterinarian.
If any doubt to your ability to properly clean and care for a wound or to the extent of the injury, go to a veterinarian

Severe Wound Care

Clean and dress wounds en route to the veterinarian. Apply pressure to reduce bleeding. Avoid use of any antiseptic or antibiotic treatment as this will limit emergency care to be given.
Have as many details as to cause and age of injury.
Wounds that are more that 6 – 12 hours old most often do not get sutures.Very dirty wounds should not be sutured.

Wound Dressings

Topical Antibiotics should only be used the first 48 hours as they will also kills the probiotics that promote proper healing.
Prescribed antibiotics are generally a narrow spectrum and should be used as directed and until the full amount has been given.
Read your labels. Many antibiotic ointments are not for use on open wounds

Aftercare

Wound should remain moist. Do NOT use any antibacterial/antimicrobial ointments after 48 hours. To keep the wound moist use wound honey sold at most drug stores.

Prognosis

Dependent of injury, baseline health of animal, and after care.
Watch for infection. This includes monitoring for a fever, sudden swelling of the area, “angry looking” skin or the area around the wound or the wound itself being hot to the touch. The wound area will become black with touches of yellow/green or sometimes other colors. There will be a very pronounced smell that you just know is “bad”. Any doubt, take your animal to the veterinarian. Infections can move to internal tissues bones, and organs causing a systemic infection called sepsis. Any doubt, take your animal to the veterinarian.

OVER THE COUNTER DRUGS TO KEEP ON HAND

Please remember most medications are light and temperature sensitive. Read storage instructions on the label. Nite expiration dates.

For Upset Stomach (vomiting, not eating, diarrhea)

Omeprazole / Prilosec – 20-40 mg once a day (ulcer treatment)
Famotidine / Pepcid – 0.25-0.5 mg per pound of body weight every 12 hours (ulcer prevention)
Pepto bismol – 1 cc per pound of body weight – may make the stool black
Kaopectate – 1 cc per pound of body weight – may make the stool black
Maalox liquid (for stomach upset) – 2 cc per 5 pounds of body weight

For Pain

Buffered aspirin – 5 mg per pound of body weight twice a day. Must be buffered and given with food. Do not give if your pig is not eating and do not give for more than 3 days without seeing your vet
Tylenol, 5 mg per pound every 8 hours. (If you use an infant's Tylenol, 1 cc per 6 pounds). Always with food. For no more than 3 days
Tramadol,buprenex, Banamine, Metacam and others can be prescribed by your veterinarian for pain control.

For Constipation (need high fiber diet)

Metamucil – start with 1 tbsp power in yogurt every 6 hours. Gradually build up to 1 packet every 6 hours
DSS / docusate sodium (stool softener) – 200-240 mg per pig twice a day
Fleet enema
Mineral oil (can be given orally or rectally)
If no significant stool in 48 hours, see vet

For Itching / Hives / Swollen Eyes

Diphenhydramine / Benadryl – 1 mg per pound of body weight every 6-8 hours

For Weeping Eyes

Terramycin ophthalmic ointment (available at feed store). Put a small amount in each eye twice daily
Saline eye flush
Vetericyn eye wash and eye spray
Warm damp cloth to gently remove any debris
Check for any kind of irritant that may have gotten in the eye. (This can be dirt or dust from straw, etc) If the weeping continues or your pig won't open its eyes, you may need to take your pig to the vet so they can use a special dye and special light to check for the presence of a foreign object or corneal abrasions.

For Parasites

Ivermectin injection 1cc sub q per 75 pounds or Dectomax injection 1cc IM per 75 pounds
Safeguard pellets (per package directions because it comes in several different strengths)
Swine Guard pour on (pigs 85 pounds and over) for mice/lice/ticks. Note; drug is lethal to bees
De Worming Article (click here)

For Coughing Pigs

Children’s cough syrup – (dextromethorphan 15 mg per 10 ml) – 10 ml per pig twice a day.
Coughing or choking? Know the difference. Link:
Why Is My Mini Pig Coughing & What Should I Do? - Mini Pig Info (click here)

For Ingested Poison

***Warning – vomiting is not always good after a pig ingests a poison. Call poison control or your ER first***

Call poison control 1-888-426-4435. https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison- control (click here) (ASPCA National Animal Poison Control) - available 24 hours a day or Pet Poison Hotline 1-855-764-7661. http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com (click here), also available 24/7.

There is a fee for either organization, so have credit card ready. Also, have the package, if applicable, with you when you make the call so you can tell them exactly what your pig ingested. If you don't know what your pig ate, neither do they. They can’t give you instructions without knowing what your pig ingested.

Drugs for poisoning:

Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (in the brown bottle, for wounds) – can be given orally (by syringe) to induce vomiting Dose: approximately 5cc per 10 pounds of body weight
Activated charcoal – adheres to any toxin left in the digestive tract and prevents pig from absorbing it – get the liquid or powdered form (the tablets/granules are not nearly as effective). Watch out – this stuff is messy and will stain anything. Comes out in the stool and the stool will also stain everything. Dose: adult pigs (over 30 pounds – 0.5 ml per pound of body weight) young pigs (less than 30 pounds – 0.1 ml per pound of body weight. Can be repeated in 8 hours. Using activated charcoal and risks link (also contains info on how to treat salt toxicity):

Items Known To Be Toxic To Your Mini Pig - Mini Pig Info (click here)

For Pregnant or Farrowing Sows

Oxytocin (RX) – Dose from vet (milk letdown, retained placenta, augment uterine contractions, agalactia syndrome, post partum metritis)
Calcium Gluconate injection— (augment uterine contractions)
Colostrum substitute (such as Ultra-Start Colostrum) in case babies cannot nurse
Goat’s milk or milk substitute in case babies cannot nurse (canned goat milk can be found at WalMart and other groceries)
Iron dextran injection (new born piglets 1cc IM on day 3c, may repeat in 10 days)
For small scrapes/abrasions
Vetercyin wound and infection treatment (can be purchased online or at Tractor Supply Stores)
Do NOT use peroxide as a cleaning agent, use soap and water to cleanse the wound before adding any kind of anti-infective.

For external bleeding due to trauma

Apply pressure and elevate as much as possible. Trying to lift the area of injury (if you can safely do this) above the level of the heart can slow the bleeding down. If you are seeing "shooting blood" or you aren't able to control the bleeding, your pig needs to be seen by the ER vet.

Keeping wounds free of flies is critical to healing. Fly strike can occur in just hours and can kill animals quickly

Miscellaneous drugs (OTC):
Melatonin (10-20 mg single dose for calming a pig)
Tums/Rolaids chewable tabs (3-6 tablets orally for sows before and after birth for calcium supplement)
Epsom salts (dissolved in warm water..used as a soak to remove pus and debris from wounds)
Super lube (antiseptic lubricant. Often used on ear tags to prevent infection during application)
KY jelly (used as lubricant for vaginal or rectal manipulation)
Vaccines (as directed by vet or on label) (most require special storage)
Vaccinations (click here)
Swat (fly repellant ointment)
Catron spray (fly repellant…may be used on open wounds)
PT Alpine spray or equivalent (premises fly bait and fly killer, safe for food animal housing)

WARNINGS ABOUT MEDICATIONS

Blu Kote is often suggested as a wound care spray. The FDA has issued warnings that prohibit use of Blu Kote in food producing animals. The active ingredient, gentian violet, is a known carcinogen. Similarly, Scarlet Oil is also not considered safe for use in food animals. Be aware of withdrawal times on medications. Withdrawal time is the amount of time in hours or days that it takes the drug to be cleared by the animal, making it safe to consume.

It sometimes seems that all the same drugs are used for both pigs and humans. NOT SO. Never give any drug without the vet’s OK. Many common human drugs are unsafe for pigs. There are several that ARE approved for pigs, but you will still need to check with your vet to be sure you are giving what is needed to treat your pig for your situation. Call the vet. Not the local sanctuary or the man who wrote a book on breeding and selling pigs, nor the lady in Montana who posted a sick pig to the chat list last week...CALL The VET. If he is not available, explain that you have an emergency and ask for a call back. If it is urgent, call a teaching vet school for information on what you should do and how long you can wait. If it’s urgent, load the pig and drive to the vet and wait for him to see you. The problem is medical, and only a medical professional has the education and practical experience to help. People may say, “oh you know way more than my vet about sick pigs.” No, I don’t. I take MY pigs to the vet. I have learned what I have learned from my vets by taking sick pigs in for their professional care. I help my vet do his best work by doing a good job of defining what I am seeing in the symptoms and giving good pre treatment and post treatment care. That's my contribution to good health. Don’t let anyone without the proper education and training treat your pig. It is dependent on you to seek out the care it needs . If the vet doesn't have pig experience, find one who does. Call the vet school nearest you for help.

Very few vets see pigs. Pigs are very difficult patients, hard to handle in an clinic, loud and sometimes dangerous to themselves and everyone around them. They are too big to pick up and can't be haltered and led. They present very few symptoms and do not handle anesthesia well and are difficult surgical patients. So if you find a vet who has the willingness to see your pig, appreciate him. He either likes pigs or sees that the need is great and that without a few trained pig vets willing to see these difficult patients, they will be left out of the medical agenda entirely. Learning to work with the vet means a lot of give and take. No vet sees pigs for the money. Learn how to be an easy client to work with so he will look forward to the challenges your pig presents.